Trekking through the Himalayan mountains of Nepal was one of the most physically demanding things I'd ever done, and also one of the most rewarding adventures I'd ever been on. The breathtaking scenery and earth based culture was nothing short of spectacular. As I moved through this world that reflected or embodied a rhythm where people listened to and connected with the spirit of the land unlike anywhere I'd ever been before, I was left with a lasting impression of Nepal and the sturdy mountain people living in those higher elevations that will be eternally etched in my memory.

"The Annapruna Circuit" (The Goddess of Abundance) was the first of three treks I did while there and because it was the my first I thought it might be wise to pay the extra rupees and hire a guide out of Kathmandu. The guesthouse I'd been staying in had a trekking company they worked with (they all did) introduce me to a confident young Nepalese man named Robin who had done this 20 day journey many times before, and he also spoke English which made things much easier.

We set a date for our departure and when doing so he asked if I wouldn't mind the company of another traveler who was from Australia and also wanting to venture out into the mountains. I was just happy to be going and welcomed the opportunity to share the trail with another person. A couple days later the international threesome of Robin from Nepal, Emily from Australia and myself from Canada all
bubbling with excitement came together and took a day long nerve racking bus ride to the village of Besisahar where we would begin our adventure the following morning. I recall sitting on the deck in front of the guesthouse that night pondering about what was yet to come and realized this had always been a dream, the romantic notion of hiking in the majestic Himalayan mountains and now there I was manifesting it. Life couldn't have been better and the next morning under a blanket of battleship gray cloud we hoisted our backpacks up onto our shoulders and began walking the first of the 22 days it would take us to complete the trek.

We skirted fast moving creeks, crossed deep gorges and rivers by swinging foot bridges, and slowly walked through small villages that sat up high looking out over valleys. Later that first day when the thunder and lightening started and the torrential rains came down we were forced to seek shelter in a tiny guest house on the trail called the Sky High Guesthouse. We dried out and stayed warm beside a dung fire happy for the down time and to be out of the nasty weather. Most guesthouses use yak or buffalo dung to fuel their fires as wood is quite scarce. The three of us enjoyed drinking pots of spicy masala chai tea while playing cribbage and other card games and when we got hungry we devoured plates of delicious dal bhat (rice, lentils vegetables and curry) with naan bread. As it turned out we ended up having to stay an extra day at the guesthouse because of the relentlessly heavy pounding rainfall. We would have liked to be moving sooner but when moving in the Himalayan mountains, being in a big hurry will just get you hurt if not worse. I just curled up and did a little journal writing to pass the time.

The weather was much better the morning we said our goodbyes to the friendly owners of the Sky High Guesthouse. The sun peeked through the slowly dissipating low cloud and spread brightness, some needed warmth and offered us the promise of a good day ahead. We were completely rested, cheerful and also very curious about what might lay ahead. It was with this new found energy our little rag tag fugitive fleet struck out hopeful that the sky would eventually clear and a drier more pleasant experience would unfold. It did, and over the next week despite major lung busting climbs, sore muscles and blisters on our feet we progressed along quite nicely enjoying the best of weather. The deeper into the Annapruna mountain range we hiked the stronger we became and the more beautiful the rugged landscapes appeared. In the villages locals were always friendly, welcoming and seemed quite content to just go about their daily lives taking very little notice of us as we traveled through, which, I must admit unlike the larger centers, made for a relaxing easy time. Up until this point we'd crossed paths with a small number of other trekkers but very few so it was quite a surprise to see so many when we walked into the village of Jagat. There were 4 maybe 5 larger groups and ourselves converging on this village at the same time and as it turned we all seemed to be moving in the same direction. It was from then on in the journey these meetings among groups became a very normal activity. At the guesthouses we got to know each other, shared our tables, meals, and a few good stories. It also became a chance for the guides (all friends) to debrief with each other. In the days that followed (all under a blanket of blue) we continued putting one foot in front of the other climbing higher and higher enjoying the panoramic mountain views and the magic of the villages along the way - Dharapani to Koto, Chame to Pisang and eventually Pisang to the ear popping cooler village of Manang sitting 3500 meters above sea level.

It was here that we spent two nights and a full day resting up allowing our bodies to acclimatize for what was yet to come. It's at this part in the story where I'll sign off leaving you with a few more images that'll hopefully give you a clearer picture of the Annapruna circuit up to Manang.
EVERYTHING IS CARRIED EITHER BY DONKEY, SMALL HORSE OR
ON THE BACKS OF THE MOUNTAIN PEOPLE
EVERYTHING
NO LOONEY TOONS OR TREEHOUSE TV FOR THESE KIDS

PRAYER WHEELS WITH SACRED MANTRAS
A BUDDHIST STUPA OR TEMPLE

WORKING THE LAND

I CAME ACROSS THESE STUDENTS STUDYING FOR FINAL EXAMS AND FOUND IT STRANGE THAT THEY WERE ALL READING OUT LOUD
IT'S EITHER UP OR DOWN
TYPICAL GUESTHOUSE KITCHEN
PART TWO IN A COUPLE DAYS
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ReplyDeleteCaught up on your stories,truly colorful and educational,ever thought of being a"Travel Writer?" all you need is a camera man. The pictures are fabulous and bring your adventures alive just like being there,surrounded by the landscapes and it's people or better yet walking right along with you.Good job well done *****
ReplyDeleteThanks for the encouraging words Maureen! So glad you enjoyed the story and pictures. Should be finished the second part of this story in a day or two!
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