Wednesday, September 10, 2014

ANNAPRUNA CIRCUIT part three


Going over the Thorung la Pass was magical, it was literally like being on another planet or in a Frank Herbert novel. The dense mountain energy, and the deep layers of silence had a quality that was quite simply exquisite! The only sounds at 5416 meters were my shallow breathing, a cold wind blowing over the snow and rocks, and the flutter of tattered prayer flags holding their earth grip and reaching out for the heavens. I'm so thankful that I made the choice to push ahead of everyone and move through this stretch on my own. It wouldn't have been the same had I been with the group. The lack of oxygen at that height was very noticeable, I was lightheaded, slightly sick to my stomach, breathing was difficult, and my balance seemed to be a little off, I felt a little like I had been drinking. Despite the lack of oxygen and the slow intense climb up, this undertaking turned out to be much easier than the going down. After three hours of brutal downhill travel my leg muscles, knees, and hips were completely gone, I was weak and wobbling big time. When I eventually walked (stumbled) into the village of Muktinath at around noon that day I certainly wasn't walking with a spring in my step feeling like the King of Kensington, no I probably looked more like a scotty hound with its tail tucked between its legs. I was utterly depleted, completely fried physically. I was also overjoyed to be able to sit in the warmth of the sun, rest my weary bones, sip on a pepsi, slurp back hot noodle soup and most importantly enjoy being able to get a full expansive breath again. I'd just spent 8 hours hiking from High Camp at 4850 meters to 5416 then back down to 3760, and was well deserving of this heightened state of euphoria! Robin, Emily and a number of others from that early morning starting line made it to the village 90 minutes later all completely spent, super happy and looking forward to doing exactly what I was doing, resting up and licking their wounds.

The days following our Thorung la Pass summit we spent working out the deep rooted fatigue and muscle stiffness that had settled in and healing up the nasty blisters from the pass. We traveled through completely different terrain of wind blown rocky expanses and brown flat land where the only other splashes of color came from the sky and occasional strings of prayer flags we'd see along the way.
Although I've never been, I thought this side of the pass is what Tibet might look like! We had made it through the hardest part of our journey and pushed on delighted that our final days on the Annapruna Circuit would be spent on an slow easy decline. There was also a growing tickle of excitement in knowing we would be finishing up at the beautiful lakeside town of Pokerha where we'd be able to access the internet, sip morning cups of good strong coffee, and eat toasted baguettes with butter and jam which I must admit I'd been craving and was ready for.


A SMALL VILLAGE IN A VALLEY MAYBE CHHYONKHAR?

The days and nights slipped by as did the villages, from Jomsom to Kalopani, Dana and Tatopani to Sikha, our walking dream was always photo rich with stunning views and wonderful people we'd meet along the way. We enjoyed a much needed soak in the hot springs in Tatopai, hung out for a day with other trekkers that had converged in the village of Sikha, and while in Ghorepani we climbed up Poon Hill in the early morning hours in time to watch the sunrise. Seemed the closer to the end of our trek we got the more trekkers we'd meet and socialize with. Even though we were all from different parts of the globe and everyone had their own reason for being there, adventure is adventure and camaraderie has a way of becoming a part of the experience. 


SPRINGTIME AND THINGS ARE POPPIN


GOTTA LOVE THE GREEN


MY KINDA VILLAGE, NO STREET LIGHTS

GHORAPANI AND VIEWS FROM POONHILL





























THE MORNING SUN RISE AND INCREDIBLE PANORAMIC VIEW WAS TOTALLY WORTH GETTING UP AND WORKING FOR.





                                                                                                                                                                                                                    

THE LAST FEW PICTURES ARE THE END OF AN EXTRAORDINARY JOURNEY

THE LARGE RHODODENDRON TREES WERE EVERYWHERE


ONCE THERE WE STAYED THE NIGHT IN THIS LITTLE
VILLAGE APPROPRIATELY CALLED, "HILLY'


CLOSE TO THE END NOW

                                                                                     
THE BEAUTIFUL RESTFUL POKHARA






VIEW FROM THE DECK OF THE GUESTHOUSE I STAYED IN

             
THEY ROAM THE STREETS AND SIDEWALKS AND ENTER SHOPS


AND ARE ALWAYS TREATED WITH THE UTMOST OF RESPECT
                                             
I'll finish this story by saying even though it's been a number of years since hiking the Annapruna Circuit, the mountains and earth based people living there continue to call me to return for another adventure. I'm still good for another nomadic wander in the Himalayas, anyone want to join me?



6 comments:

  1. Love the stories & pic's.

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  2. Im loving these blogs Brian, I can feel the cool crisp mountain air on my skin and and the excitement of all of it , thankyou for these!

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Bev!
      Your a nomadic adventurer at heart, and I can totally see you in those mountains!

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  3. Absolutely loving your blog posts Brian! Thanks for sharing :)

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