The Thar Desert of Rajasthan India

After a punishingly cold overnight bus ride from the congested noisy city of Agra with it's outstanding jewel of attraction the Taj Mahal I arrived in the much smaller colorful laid back desert town of Pushkar. I climbed off the bus that morning to  a chill in the air, my muscles were stiff, I was hungry and feeling thick as a brick from the lack of sleep. I was also overwhelmed by an energetic wave of fast talking young guys working for the local guesthouses, all of them jockeying for my potential business and the chance to begin their morning by making a few rupees. The competition was stiff and for an hour (or three cups of chai tea and a little roadside breakfast) they badgered me relentlessly until I finally gave in picking the kid who was representing the Pink Floyed Cafe and Hotel. Must admit my choice was more because of the hotel name name then his smooth talking abilities. Actually he was the silent one in the group, which I think was another reason I went with him. With me in tow he quickly navigated us through a maze of busy cow filled streets and down narrow back alleys arriving some ten minutes later at a holy lake in the middle of town which was said to have a thousand white washed temples surrounding it. Not so certain about that number but it really was beautiful sight, like something from the story book India we've all heard or read about at one time or another. According to Hindu legend the lake was created by a lotus flower that Lord brahma dropped while looking for a place to pray on a full moon. It's believed that the lake is one of India's most sacred holy places and praying on a full moon beside or bathing in it is very auspicious and because of this thousands make pilgrimages throughout the year (some for hundreds of miles) and make their connection with the great mystery.

Just so happened my quiet enterprising young pal thought it would be best if I also made an offering of money and gave thanks or puja before continuing on to the Guesthouse. After surviving the 14 hour overnight bus ride from Agra and then the on slot of major tiredness as we made our way through town, how could I argue about the opportunity to give thanks. He introduced to me to an older gentleman who asked about my family, where I was from etc. etc. then had me follow him down one of the many stairways leading to the waters edge.
Through an incense infused ceremony of prayer that lasted maybe 10 minutes I was asked to recited the names of family members and any friends I wanted to pray for then place flowers in the holy lake after which he tied a piece of cotton string to my left wrist and close the sacred prayer.

Despite my being brain dead from sleep deprivation mixed with a jangled nerves from over stimulation (India can do that to a person) I found being at the waters edge of the holy lake calming and an appropriate way to be welcomed to Pushkar.

PUSHKAR FROM THE PINK FLOYD ROOFTOP CAFE 

The Pink Floyd Guesthouse was tucked nicely away from the hustle and bustle of the main public street and the room Id been given although a little dark and noisy at times was perfect for this rag tag wander who was just glad to be able to drop everything and rest. The owners and staff were very friendly and the open rooftop cafe with it's delicious Indian food and unobstructed 360 degree view of Pushkar and the surrounding country was a wonderful surprise. When I wasn't exploring the streets of Pushkar I was on the roof sipping rich chai tea, visiting with other guests and taking in the beautiful views. My only regret about my stay in Pushkar was that I didn't take more pictures from the rooftop of the Pink Floyd Hotel. A couple days after my arrival I searched out a camel trekking company and signed up for a 11 day journey through the Thar desert to the city of Jaisalmer.
The following pictures and commentary are from my time spent plodding along on my trusty camel "Vishnu" with my young guides Babu and Severn leading the way.

MY GUIDES, BABU 23 ON THE RIGHT, AND SEVERN 17 ON THE LEFT

THESE GUYS MAY HAVE BEEN YOUNG IN YEARS, BUT THEY DEFINITELY HAD SKILL WITH THE ANIMALS AND AN UNDERSTANDING OF THE DESERT'S CONTINUOUSLY CHANGING RYTHME TO MAKE MY JOURNEY A SAFE AND UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE.  NEITHER OF THEM HAD EVER HEARD OF SANTA THE MOVIE STAR WARS OR THE LORD OF THE RINGS TRILOGY, NOR HAD THEY EVER LISTENED TO THE BEATLES MUSIC. SAME PLANET, DIFFERENT WORLD

I MUST ADMIT AS EXCITED AS I WAS ABOUT BEING "BRIAN OF THE THAR DESERT" GETTING ON THE BACK OF "VISHNU" MY TRUSTY CAMEL AND BEING UP SO HIGH MADE ME A LITTLE NERVOUS AND TOOK A LITTLE GETTING USED TO. 

I'D RIDE THROUGH THE COOLER MORNING HOURS THEN IN THE HEAT OF THE AFTERNOON I'D CLIMB INTO THE SHADE OF THE CAMEL CART AND HANG OUT THE SEVERN AND BABU......







                                                 

WITH VISHNU IN TOW, (NO PUN INTENDED)

         

  SHEEP AND HERDERS WERE AS CONSTANT AS THE SUN 

   

THE PEOPLE OF RAJASTHAN, MORE SPECIFICALLY THE THAR DESERT WERE STUNNINGLY BEAUTIFUL. THE WOMEN WITH THEIR EXQUISTE GOLD JEWELRY AND COLORFUL SAREES, THE MEN ALL LOOKING LIKE OMARE SHARIF WITH NICELY GROOMED HANDLEBAR MUSTACHES AND WELL MOUNTED TURBANS AND CHILDREN THAT WERE  ALWAYS BEAMING FROM EAR TO EAR WHILE RUNNING ALONG SIDE US WERE GENUINELY INTERESTED, AND WELCOMING. 

THE WEATHERED FACES OF THE DESERT

                                                                              

                                                                              

HAD A SWEET VISIT WITH THIS NICE MAN WHO WAS CARETAKER OF
A TEMPLE WE STAYED AT FOR THE NIGHT

 NEITHER ONE OF US UNDERSTOOD WHAT THE OTHER WAS SAYING BUT THAT DIDN'T MATTER BECAUSE THE SINCERITY OF THE MOMENT MADE IT FEEL LIKE THE MOST NATURE THING...... WE SPOKE VOLUMES

AT PLAY ON THE DUNES

MEALS WERE ALWAYS AN INTERESTINGLY FUN YUMMY EXPERIENCE 

AND THE FUEL WE USED MORE THEN ANYTHING WAS DRY CAMEL OR COW DUNG 

IN TRUTH I'D NEVER COOK, I JUST LIKE TO STIR THINGS ON OCCASION 

SEEMED LIKE WHENEVER WE STOP TO HAVE OUR LUNCH OR DINNER IT ALWAYS ENDED UP BECOMING A SPECTATOR SPORT WITH LOCALS SHOWING UP TO SIT AND VISIT, CURIOUS
ABOUT US, ME MOSTLY

A FEW MORE IMAGES FROM THE THAR DESERT TO CLOSE THIS WEEKS BLOG

A DESERT HOME AND BEAUTIFUL MOTHER

THE BRIGHT BEAUTIFUL RAJASTHANI PEOPLE OF THIS OPEN SHIFTING LAND 

WITH IT'S DUNES, CONSTANT SUN FILLED BLUE SKY AND STAR STUDDED BLACK NIGHTS TOUCHED ME DEEPLY AND OVER THE PAST NUMBER OF YEARS HAVE WISPER FOR MY RETURN. 

SO I'M PLANNING ANOTHER NOMADIC JOURNEY TO PUSHKAR AND LOOK AHEAD WITH GREAT ANTICIPATION KNOWING I'M GOING TO BE TRAVELING THROUGH THE VAST QUIET SPACE OF THE THAR DESERT ONCE AGAIN IN THE NEAR FUTURE.